After our reef visit we could see a window to visit the stunning Zoe Bay on Hinchinbrook Island. Zoe Bay is known for its long sandy pristine beach, lush tropical rainforest backdrop, high spectacular mountain peaks and an iconic waterfall.
Zoe Bay is on the eastern side of the island, exposed to swell and the southeasterly trade winds, what we call on open-roadstead anchorage, hence it’s exciting when a Zoe Bay ‘window’ comes in to play.
After a two-night stopover at Lucinda, waiting for our calm Zoe ‘window’ and unexpectedly catching up with friends on Reeflection, Catina and Aquasista at the Lucinda Hotel, Adagio and The Bossa motored further north to Zoe Bay. While there was no wind, the sea state was a still little lumpy so we decided to give the seas another day to calm down and anchored instead in the neighbouring Banksia Bay. A great decision!
Banksia Bay has three beaches to visit by dinghy and all are bounded by lush rainforest vegetation along with more majestic Hinchinbrook towering peaks. It is a very pretty bay. The hikers walking the Hinchinbrook Thorsborne Trail walk through these beaches on their way to Zoe Bay.
A bit of our history with Zoe Bay …
Way back in 1987, pre children, we visited Zoe Bay in our 23 foot trailer sailer. There are two creeks that feed in to Zoe Bay, one on the southern end where the waterfall is and one at the northern end. We anchored our Southern Comfort in the northern end, after walking it in on a rising tide (we had no idea this was croc territory … there are signs everywhere now). Marg and Ross on Adagio had a similar story to tell on their 28‘ trailer sailer, a few years later and with two children to boot! Now sailing on our whopping big 40’ catamaran and their 52’ mono … we both wondered if we were mad??!! I’d like to think adventurous (or maybe just plain dumb).
We have now visited Zoe Bay three times since 1987 on The Bossa. It is not a place you tire of. Perfect conditions this time too.
You can just see the waterfall above the creek entrance.
These two photos show both the southern end of Zoe where the waterfall is and the northern end, with a 2.5 km walk between them.
It’s an easy walk upstream to the waterfall (20 mins) and well worth the visit for a magical swim. There is a pristine pool of fresh water at the bottom of a high rock face with water cascading from high above. There’s even friendly ‘jungle perch’ checking you out below. It is a beautiful spot and I had it all to myself for a short time.
Neville, Marg and Ross made the extra climb to the waterfall pools right at the top. Ross took these photos of the wonderful view.
You can see our boats anchored in the bay and looking down to the swimming hole at the base of the waterfall.
We didn’t actually circumnavigate Hinchinbrook Island in the truest sense, but we did so in a roundabout way I suppose. After Zoe Bay we stopped overnight at Hinchinbrook’s most northern point, Cape Richards, visited the very tidal and muddy Cardwell for a pharmacy visit and a top up of water, and then my favourite Gayundah Creek and Haycock Island in the Hinchinbrook Channel a few days later.
The Cardwell shore line is so shallow for a very long way out and it’s all mud. Suffice to say the Captain had a small moment of concern when the water seemed to disappear in a puff. Perhaps not the smartest decision on a falling tide! And when you’d been told there was a local four-metre croc in the vicinity (it was actually quite a distance upstream near the now defunct Port of Hinchinbrook Marina entrance).
Our weather forecast was not looking favourable with strong SE winds and rain approaching, especially knowing we both needed to return to Townsville (the Captain needed a sun spot surglically removed and Adagio were collecting guests). After we squeezed in a Dunk Island visit (and lunch at the new Spit Café), we decided to shelter from the approaching inclement weather in Guyandah Creek in the Hinchinbrook Channel.
Our view from The Bossa … stunning!
Reflections at sunrise (yes I was up!).
Guyandah Creek is very much a favourite stop of mine. We always drop anchor right down the end of the creek so as to get the best view of the mountain range. The rugged Hinchinbrook peaks are so mesmerising with the clouds drifting between them, even on a fine day. Stunning!
Fortunately I got the drone up one morning when it was calm and when we had some sunshine, as there really wasn’t another opportunity as the weather closed in … along with the midges! So much more fun in company too. A few visits to Adagio for games helped pass the time (does Ross always have to win our games?!). There were six boats sheltering from the outside winds.
Did you spot the croc? A look around with my binoculars and then a photo with my telephoto lens confirmed the ID. It was a long way from us.
With a two-day opportunity to motor-sail south we have both now arrived at the Townsville Marina. The Bossa will be heading north again, Adagio south, back to Melbourne.
Note: Remember you can touch/click-on each photo for a larger view (bar the slideshow).
Very jealous. If I want to get to Zoe Bay now, I will have to walk in. Thanks for great photos.
Spoke to a few hikers this visit. All were positive. So maybe some day Trish!
Great post, Amanda, such a photogenic region, especially with the drone. Hinchinbrook always reminds me of Moorea in Polynesia.
Thanks Chris. Yes it’s so evocative. The drone has added so much to our photography exploits, especially in places like Hinchinbrook.
Totally agree!
Awesome Amanda! Very detailed and as it on our radar from Townsville very informative- hope we can align at some stage cheers 🥂
Hinchinbrook is definitely worth visiting & if you can time it for a Zoe Bay visit, even better. We tend to head out to the reef when there’s a calm few days but this visit we managed both. Use Banksia Bay as an overnight anchorage rather than Zoe. A bit more protected.
Another really enjoyable read!
Thanks Sally. I’ve written about Hinchinbrook many times over the years. But I never tire of visiting nor photographing & writing about this area. Hope you are snug somewhere. So much wind.